Elements
Design
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Unlike its more common cousin the Penny Loafer, Barba Loafers eschew adornment and instead manifest famous designer Dieter Ram’s principle “Less, but Better”. The goal with this loafer was to use a minimalist silhouette as a backdrop for the materials and construction to shine through. First, the proportions were meticulously sculpted to bring a balance of style and restraint. Then, the construction and materials were carefully chosen to strike a delicate balance between formal sheen and rugged casual. The result is an accessible statement piece, a versatile shoe guaranteed to enhance all types of dress and styles and turn heads for all the right reasons.
Last
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A custom last was painstakingly hand-sculpted to give this loafer intentional form. The shape is sleek without being showy, substantial without being clunky. The anatomy and movement of the human foot was our starting point. We examined the ball of the foot, heels, instep, and the rolling motion of the step to create a comfortable and cradling base.
Upper
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Our Italian vegetable-tanned and locally-sourced chrome-tanned leather are beautiful, comfortable, and will get better with age. The Top/Full-Grain hide is not sanded down to erase imperfections and therefore retains maximum durability. It has been dyed all the way through, so that scratches and creases will imbue it with character. These are some of the finest leathers available, period.
Lining
Often overlooked, the lining is a critical element of the shoe, especially on something meant to be worn sockless such as a loafer. The lining is made of antibacterial calfskin to help coddle the foot and prevent odors from building. The light cream color imbues a clean edge and pops with the darker color of the upper leather.
Stitching
The upper and lining are straight cut to showcase the quality of the leathers, and the single-row stitching is done completely by hand for an artisanal finish. A dense "threads per inch" specification with a small needle give it a fine finish.
Insole/Filling
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The soles are the foundation (soul?) of the shoe. The insole of the shoe is made of a thick vegetable-tanned leather and, together with the natural cork filling underneath, will indent and conform to your foot over time while allowing it to breathe to minimize sweat. We do not use any synthetic bulk materials in this construction. While memory foam and other cushions may be popular in other shoes, they cause excess sweat, smell, and degrade over time. While these shoes may take a bit more time than cheaper shoes to break in, they’ll be much more comfortable and durable in the long run.
Goodyear Welting
Most shoes are now cemented (glued) together and intended to be thrown out when the sole wears out. Great shoes should be repaired, not thrown out. Typically found exclusively on shoes costing hundreds of dollars, Goodyear Welting construction is beautiful and considered by many to be the gold standard. This process is more laborious and expensive but allows for your shoes to be resoled as the upper and insole mold to your foot but the bottom leather wears out.
Finish
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Finally, a heel made of stacked sole leather and a rubber grip pad is nailed to the shoe on both top and bottom. The ends of the nails are bent to fix it in place. The excess edges of the sole and welt are hand ground to a uniform thickness around the shoe. The sole is lightly brush-stained, and the product sits in the last for a few days to ensure it maintains shape. All of these processes are done by hand to create a unique artisan finish on each shoe. Unlike factory product done by machines at scale, no two pairs of Barba Loafers are the same.
The Team
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I considered several countries to manufacture and were surprised to find limited capability/capacity in what once were proud manufacturing cultures. I found that the city with the best combination of old-world traditions, cutting edge equipment, and advancement of the craft was Leon, MX. The shoe manufacturing industry has thrived here, and I'm excited to support the local economy and maintain their legacy. The shoes are handcrafted in a small workshop with around 7 total craftspeople. These are proud artisans with decades of experience among them. They're compensated above market and are passionate about what they do and we think that passion translates beautifully to the final product.